Site icon Blaster Hub

Xshot Pro Skins Motorized Piston Pump Review

This has been a hard review to write for several reasons. First, I had trouble finding time to even use it at a game – and the first time I did, the well used club darts resulted in misfeeding. The second time I had an opportunity, I tuned it down for HvZ…and the camera battery died. The third time, I tuned it up to near 200fps, but had issues with the blaster getting stuck; admittedly, that spring load was pushing the limits. Finally, at this last game, I had lots of flawless time with the blaster in stock form.

It’s a big release; I should have the game time using before making an opinion, right?

The Xshot Pro Skins Motorized Piston Pump is an impressive blaster, aiming to combine the best aspects of typical spring-powered and motorized blasting. It’s a tad sensitive to the darts being used, but as long as you’re taking care (and not trying to push the blaster beyond its limits), it’s a workhorse that will keep performing admirably.

Have You Seen My PP?

Let’s be honest: if Zuru is calling a blaster “Big Rizz”, then at some point, someone had to have noted the initials for this blaster, and they kept the name anyway.

In any case, name aside, the packaging for this blaster is gorgeous. Between proclaiming it as “Our Best Blaster Ever!” with a seal of approval, and the rigid display packaging inside the box, Zuru went all out. You have the blaster, a magazine, 40 pink short darts, barrel, BCAR attachment, iron sights, battery, and USB charger all in box. It’s a 2S Lithium rechargeable pack, with two 18650 cells in a wrapper, that you can also find in Xshot’s larger gel blasters.

Did I mention the pink, teal, and orange look amazing on a pro blaster? I like the current color of the Xshot Pro Skins lineup, so the continuity is a nice touch.

What Magic is This???

The Piston Pump is a unique offering for store shelves, boasting both a rechargeable battery and an Automatic Electronic Blaster (AEB) powertrain. If you’ve seen the term AEG used for airsoft or gel, then you’re in luck – it’s the exact same concept, but for launching darts. The Piston Pump also features select-fire, with the main switch having “Off”, “Semiauto”, and “full auto” settings.

The Piston Pump features a closed bolt system, which requires a bit more attention than the open-bolt systems of old (namely, the Nerf Vulcan and Nerf Stampede). When you first connect the battery, load a magazine (a 15-round Talon-style magazine is included, along with 40 short darts), and pick a firing setting, the first trigger pull will make the blaster beep. A second trigger pull cycles the bolt, loading a dart and leaving the blaster primed. From that point on, you fire a dart whenever you pull the trigger, and the blaster automatically primes the plunger and loads the next dart. From the player perspective, it makes sense; fire that dart immediately, then take the time to ready the next shot.

It does mean, however, that the blaster will sit there primed if you don’t do anything with it. Thankfully, after enough time being primed, the blaster will beep annoyingly at you to remind you to de-prime it. When turning the blaster off/to safety, hold the trigger down. After a few second, the blaster will fire the plunger without completing the cycle – that will put it in its rest state, without leaving anything under stress.

She’s a Brick….HOUSE

The blaster is relatively large, but quite sturdy, and the front grip and large handle make using it a breeze. The barrel can be inserted and removed using a collet system. A cap on the front tightens down fingers against the barrel to hold it in place, and you can use other 16mm OD barrels if you have them handy. Do note, however, that overtightening the cap will stress it and reduce its lifespan (3d printed replacements are available).

The stock, meanwhile, is your typical buffer tube setup. The battery sits in the shoulder rest, under a simple door. The stock assembly, meanwhile, screws into the rear of the blaster, with an orange tightening nut holding it in place.

Under THAT, meanwhile, is the spring rest you can access using a screwdriver or an insert tool to rotate and release it. Once that’s done, you can replace the stock spring with other options. I shouldn’t have to say this…but only swap the spring when the blaster is off and de-primed, okay?

Finally, the blaster includes iron sights, a BCAR for increased dart accuracy, and a simple USB battery charger. It’s also using an inexpensive JST SM-2P connector for the battery, not a hobby standard connector (XT30, XT60, Deans, etc.) that you’d expect for a high current application. It’s…a choice, one that’s likely to not last as long as users would like. But for now, it works.

Should you have need to open the bolt, there is an orange loading handle on top of the blaster (it’s NOT meant for priming). There’s also a jam door, held down with its own screw, if you need it. Given the rapidly moving bolt during normal operation, I understand why Zuru made that choice!

Gameplay and Performance

The Motorized Piston Pump averages a little over 3 darts per second on full-auto, and slightly less than that on semi-auto. Single shots require you to wait to press the trigger again until the blaster has fully cycled, so you can’t spam darts like you would with a flywheel blaster. So you have options, but full-auto is simply easier.

As for dart velocity, I was averaging 162fps with the included darts. Which is quite good…but that’s also using fresh or firm darts.

Once you get to using this blaster, it’s hard to put down.

Internals and Thoughts on Modding

Credit where it’s due to u/VikingKing7676 on Reddit, because I’m content not trying to open this blaster up. Aside from swapping out the spring and the barrel, I’m not too worried about trying to change much on the inside. However, there are a couple things to note.

When you remove/put back the stock assembly after changing the spring. you have to first carefully thread the battery leads through it. You also have to make sure they’re tucked into their space properly, so that you don’t accidentally crush or nick them when you screw the stock back on.

If you want to use your own lipos, you’ll need to cut off the stock connector and solder in your own connector. I haven’t needed to so far, but it’s worth considering if you want to use batteries with higher capacity or current capabilities.

Finally, if you’re looking to downgrade this for HvZ, use a really short barrel. It’s doable!

Last Thoughts

You’re going to see this blaster reduced in price or on sale for the holidays – already I’m seeing sales for $60. Grab one of these blasters while you can. It’s an amazing package that performs beyond expectations. Just keep the darts on the fresh side!

 

Exit mobile version